5/2 - Old Delhi, Same Old Problems

Our last day in Delhi, we decided to visit the major area we had yet to see, that being Old Delhi. Old Delhi has attractions such as the Red Fort and Jama Masjid (India’s largest mosque). So we hired a driver for half-a-day through the B&B and off we went.

Old Delhi is a densely packed area so our driver could not take us directly to Lahore Gate (entrance to the Red Fort). Rather he parked a km or 2 away and we were approaching by a rickshaw (as in pedal, not auto) who said he would be our guide and take us around where we wanted to go (150/hr – quite a ripoff really, but such insight comes with time). And off we went, his legs pumping slowly but strongly, through the heavier and faster traffic.

Red Fort was our first destination and it is really worth the visit. Not only is it grand in size and architecture, it is a relatively quiet oasis from all the street noise and chaos, never mind the touts, beggars, and other demanders of your time, attention, and rupees.

After an hour or so we went back out to our driver – who had waited outside for us – and then it was into the true Old Delhi markets area. Imagine very narrow “streets” (laneways) lined with small shops on each side. With each street or collection of streets being dedicated to an different enterprise – silver, wedding materials, cloth, etc. It was a strange experience being riden through this area – a very congested place – with the rickshaw occupying over half the width of the lane … yet we were able to make continuous steady progress.

Unfortunately the trip soured somewhat then. Unsolicited the rider/driver took us to a Jain temple, which had a bit of a seedy feel in that we were ushered around, told to sit here etc. when we had no idea of what was really going on. After a long spiel we were hit up for donations. Maria in particular was very uncomfortable and angry, so we cut the rest of the trip through the bazaar/markets (much to the surprise/chagrin of the driver who was probably counting on leading us to other businesses with whom he was in cahoots) and went straight to Jama Masjid. Having “foolishly” worn shorts that day I was reduced to the indignity (at least that’s what many of the residents of the courtyard inside the mosque appeared to think based on their expressions) of being required to wear a kind of skirt to cover my legs. Our ill-will over the rapacious nature of those we were seeing was heightened by demands for tips for the skirt and having “minded” our shoes (just left outside).
Enough was enough. We had the rickshaw driver take us back to the car, paid him off, and then had the car driver take us the Defence Colony Markets (relatively near our hotel) so we could have a late lunch together in a more quiet environment. This was a good move and we strolled the area and did a bit of shopping afterwards – feeling like we were back in control. Then an auto-rickshaw ride back to K-1-1 and our farewell dinner (at the B&B) with Thierry and Christine. Despite the fact of our early departure in the morning we stayed talking late that night on the rooftop garden – it was hard saying goodnight (and a temporary goodbye) to such recent but such good friends.